Comuna 13 Medellín is the hillside neighbourhood of San Javier, known today for street art and outdoor escalators, but also for the violence it lived through in the 1990s and early 2000s. Yes, you can visit without a guide, because the streets are public. A local guide adds the history and the stories behind the murals that you cannot read from a wall.
What is Comuna 13 Medellín?
Medellín is divided into 16 comunas, and Comuna 13, also called San Javier, sits on the western hills. Around 160,000 people live there, in homes stacked up very steep slopes. Many families arrived over the decades from the countryside and built their houses themselves.
Today it is one of the most visited places in the city. People come for the murals, the music and dance shows, the viewpoints and the escalators. It is also a home, a school route and a workplace for thousands of residents, so visiting well means paying attention to that.
What happened in Comuna 13? A short history
In the 1990s and early 2000s the neighbourhood was fought over by armed groups: guerrilla militias, gangs and later paramilitary groups. Its position on the western edge of the city, with routes toward the coast, made it strategically valuable. The state had little presence and residents lived under pressure from all sides.
Operación Mariscal and Operación Orión, 2002
In May 2002, a military and police operation named Mariscal entered the area. Accounts report that 15 people died and 35 were injured, including minors. In October 2002, under President Álvaro Uribe, the army and police launched Operación Orión, a two-day offensive on 16 and 17 October that the Truth Commission describes as the biggest military action in an urban area in Colombia's conflict. Hundreds of people were detained, and civilians were hurt.
Many residents say that the violence did not end when the operation did. Disappearances and kidnappings followed, and paramilitary groups were later blamed for many killings. The role of the state in these events is still disputed in Colombia, and courts and the transitional justice system have investigated them.
La Escombrera and the search for the missing
La Escombrera is a rubble dump on the edge of the commune. Families of the disappeared, many of them women, say their relatives were buried there. In late 2024, Colombia's transitional justice court, the JEP, announced the first human remains found there. The JEP has said it has not yet determined whether they belong to victims of Orión. The search continues, and the subject is politically sensitive. Treat it with respect.
Timeline at a glance
- May 2002: Operación Mariscal, a military and police operation lasting about 12 hours.
- 16 and 17 October 2002: Operación Orión, the large offensive that followed.
- 2008: the Metrocable line from San Javier station opens.
- 2011: the outdoor escalators open in Las Independencias.
- Late 2024: the JEP announces the first human remains found at La Escombrera.
Dates and figures in this guide come from public reporting and from official or academic sources. For the legal side of the events, follow the work of the JEP and the Truth Commission, which are still publishing findings.
How did Comuna 13 change?
Change came through public works and through the residents themselves.
- 2008: a Metrocable line connected the commune to the Metro at San Javier station, cutting travel times for people who lived high on the hill.
- 2011: six sections of outdoor escalators opened in the neighbourhood of Las Independencias, replacing a climb of more than 350 steps. They are now one of the best known sights in the city.
- Community art: artists, hip-hop collectives and local organisations turned the walls into a record of what the community lived through. Casa Kolacho, for example, runs graffiti tours led by locals.
Not everything has improved equally. Tourism brings income and pride, but it also brings crowds, noise and pressure on prices. The best visits support local guides, artists and businesses.
Can you visit Comuna 13 without a guide?
Yes. The streets, the escalators and the viewpoints are public, and thousands of people walk them each week without a guide. If you go alone, keep these points in mind:
- Go in the morning or early afternoon and leave before dark. Do not wander into the upper streets at night.
- Stay on the busy, signposted route near the escalators. Streets away from it are residential and quieter.
- Keep your phone and camera in hand only when you use them. Pickpocketing is a risk in busy spots.
- Do not buy from or follow people who approach you offering drugs or a private route.
- Ask before photographing people, and do not take photos of children.
How do you get to Comuna 13?
The Metro is the simplest way to start. Take Line B to San Javier station, which is the western end of the line and the start of the Metrocable. From there, you continue to the neighbourhood by taxi, ride-hailing or a local bus. Ask at the station for the current route, since public bus lines change.
A taxi or ride-hailing car from El Poblado or the centre is easy and takes you to the entrance of the escalators. Agree the fare or use the app, and plan your return before you go up, because cars are harder to find at the top.
PH Tours Medellín made my time in Colombia unforgettable. He was extremely knowledgeable as he took us through Comuna 13, Guatapé, Medellín, and several other places around Colombia.What a local guide adds
A guide does not change what you see. It changes what you understand. A guide who knows the community can explain the symbols in the murals, the sequence of events in 2002, what the neighbourhood was like before the escalators, and what residents want visitors to know. Good guides also know where to eat, when to avoid crowds and where it is respectful to take photos.
PH Tours Medellín runs private Comuna 13 tours with Felipe (“Pipe”), Andrés and Laura. We pick you up at your hotel anywhere in Medellín, and tours run in English or Spanish. Guests describe Felipe as very knowledgeable about the history of the city. We also tell the story with respect, including its victims.
Visiting with respect
- Remember that people live here. Keep your voice down and do not block doorways.
- Support local business: buy a drink, a snack or art from the people who live in the neighbourhood.
- Read before you go. Our guide to Pablo Escobar's Medellín gives the wider background to the 1990s.
- Do not treat the violence as entertainment. These events have names, families and unresolved questions.
Questions travellers ask
Can you visit Comuna 13 without a guide?
Yes. The streets and escalators are public. Go in daylight, stay on the busy route, keep your belongings secure and ask before taking photos of residents. A guide is optional but gives you the history.
What happened in Comuna 13?
In 2002 the army and police carried out Operación Mariscal in May and Operación Orión in October against armed groups. Civilians were affected, disappearances followed, and the events remain disputed. The search for the missing at La Escombrera continues.
How do you get to Comuna 13?
Take Metro Line B to San Javier station, then continue by taxi, ride-hailing or local bus to the escalators. A taxi from El Poblado or the centre is also straightforward.
Why is Comuna 13 famous?
For its murals and street art, the outdoor escalators opened in 2011, and the story of how a neighbourhood once marked by violence became a destination for visitors.
Is Comuna 13 safe for tourists?
In the busy tourist areas during the day, visitors generally walk freely. Take normal precautions: leave before dark, avoid isolated streets, protect your phone and do not accept offers from strangers.
